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Dagger Pinstriping Brushes are made by Andrew Mack Brush Company. Dagger Pinstriping Brushes have two side to Pinstripe with verses one side on Sword Pinstriping brushes. Dagger Pinstriping Brushes work more like a pencil and are great for detail work known as "Ginger-Bread". I find Dagger Pinstriping Brushes better for control, and Sword Pinstriping Brushes better for Long Pinstripe lines.
Dagger Pinstriping Brushes made in the USA, with a European dressed squirrel hair Pinstriper's Brush. Brushes are made of three sections - the root, where the ferrule (the wire band or thread that keeps hairs attached to the brush) is located, the belly section in the middle, and the end tip. Most artists either blunt the normally pointed tip of the brush, or slightly alter the belly. Water-soluble sizing is used to keep brushes stiff during shipping; they need to be cleaned right out of the package. After the sizing is rinsed out, the brush is ready to be shaped.
Which Pinstriping brush? This is a question that is asked regularly, and it really is personal preference. It really comes down to what fits into a person’s hand and they are comfortable with. This will vary for each person. It has been recommended that a shorter handle lengths for beginners so they have better control pinstriping cars, boats, trucks or whatever you want to. Individual Dagger Pinstriping Brushes listed Below!
Dagger Pinstriping Brush Cleaning and Care: Always clean out pinstriping brushes well using the proper solvent or thinner for the paint your using. Some cleaning agents that contain more than 5% Methanol can attack the glues for the threads holding the pinstriping brush hairs to the wooden handle, in simple terms, Methanol can ruin the brushes. After a good cleaning, store brushes used in oils or solvent in Brush Oil to keep the hair relaxed and to prevent any paint that is trapped in the hilt/ferrule of the brush from drying. Brush oil can be cleaned out with Mineral Spirits, Turpentine and if need my may use Lacquer thinner before using the pinstriping brush the next time.
Brush Tips by Ron Percell, I always use refined Lard Oil as a brush preservative to get the most life out of my Brushes. I ran across a old sign kit of mine that had been stored for 15 years and the refined Lard oil was still fresh. Before I used some of those vegetable based products and they would dry and crystallize in 3-6 month, it took some serious soaking to get the stuff out of the brushes. Over the years of making professional chemicals for the sign painting industry I've learned that those few water-based (plant based) oils are natural Varnishes, now tell me, would you leave varnish in your brushes, I don't think so. Avoid automotive oils, they have detergents which eat at the hairs. In a pinch, mineral oil will for a short time but isn't thick enough, so stick with refined Lard Oil like the Old Timers did...