Buy Pinstriping Brushes for Sale here. American and European Pinstriping Brushes of many kinds for sale. There are two main types of pinstriping brushes (Swords and Daggers) based on how the Pinstriping Brushes are shaped. Pinstriping How-To Books to learn from. Pinstripe Brush Care, Pinstriper's Materials and Supplies. Experienced professionals to help you with your Pinstriping Brushes needs.
Sword Style Pinstriping Brushes: Sword's longest hairs on top (tip) and tapers back to a shorter length on the underside by the handle.
The sword brush originated on the early assembly lines, used mainly for automotive paint touch-ups. Over the years, brushes have evolved to better suit Pinstriper's needs, with short and long handles, large and small bellies (the middle section where the paint is carried), and different kinds of hair - squirrel hair being the most commonly used.
Dagger Style Pinstriping Brushes: - Daggers have hairs that are longest at the tip with the top and bottom hairs tapering to a shorter length.
Dagger style pinstriping brushes are great for small or curved work.
Sign Painters Pinstriping Brushes: Sign Painter or Sign Writer Pinstriping brushes have longer handles that are more comfortable because the handle is similar to a lettering brush handle.
Long Hair Pinstriping Brushes: Are designed to carry more or heavier amounts of paint and produce longer pinstripe lines.
Short Hair Pinstriping Brushes: Are designed to do more detailed pinstriping such as Accent pinstripes called Ginger Bread or known as Bugs typically found on hoods, front fenders and trunks of vehicles and boats,
How Pinstriping Brushes are made: of three sections - the root, where the ferrule (the wire band or thread that keeps hairs attached to the brush) is located, the belly section in the middle, and the end tip. Most artists either blunt the normally pointed tip of the brush, or slightly alter the belly. Because a water-soluble sizing is used to keep brushes stiff during shipping, they need to be cleaned right out of the package. After the sizing is rinsed out, the brush is ready to be shaped. Selecting a brush is largely a matter of personal preference. What fits into a persons hand and they are comfortable with, which will vary for each person. It has been recommended that a shorter handle lengths for beginners so they have better control.
Pinstriping Brush Cleaning and Care: Always clean out pinstriping brushes well using the proper solvent or thinner for the paint your using. Some cleaning agents that contain more than 5% Methanol can attack the glues for the threads holding the pinstriping brush hairs to the wooden handle, in simple terms, Methanol can ruin the brushes. After a good cleaning, store brushes used in oils or solvent in Brush Oil to keep the hair relaxed and to prevent any paint that is trapped in the hilt/ferrule of the brush from drying. Brush oil can be cleaned out with Mineral Spirits, Turpentine and if need my may use Lacquer thinner before using the pinstriping brush the next time.
Brush Tips by Ron Percell, I always use refined Lard Oil as a brush preservative to get the most life out of my Brushes. I ran across a old sign kit of mine that had been stored for 15 years and the refined Lard oil was still fresh. Before I used some of those vegetable based products and they would dry and crystallize in 3-6 month, it took some serious soaking to get the stuff out of the brushes. Over the years of making professional chemicals for the sign painting industry I've learned that those few water based (plant based) oils are natural Varnishes, now tell me, would you leave varnish in your brushes, I don't think so. Avoid automotive oils, they have detergents which eat at the hairs. In a pinch, mineral oil will for a short time but isn't thick enough, so stick with refined Lard Oil like the Old Timers did...
Listed below you'll find a variety of different Pinstriping brushes links, just click and follow the links to the different styles available. If you still need help call us for assistance.